2014 - AT Year 5 Recovery Hike - Foothills Trail Section 1 - Oconee SP to Bad Creek Access

Foothills Trail Section 1- Oconee State Park to Bad Creek Access (32 miles)
I have enjoyed section hiking the Appalachian Trail for several years, but have been considering possible backpacking hikes closer to home. The Foothills Trail has been on my 'radar' for several years as a hike worth trying. The Foothills Trail, like the AT, is a designated National Scenic Trail covering 77 miles across northwestern South Carolina, and southern North Carolina. It travels mostly through land managed by the National Forest Service - the Sumter National Forest in SC, and the Nantahala National Forest in NC. Part of the trail is managed by Duke Energy. In researching this trail, I could see many advantages to embarking on a multi-day hike. It traverses scenic corridors of the Chattooga and Whitewater rivers; there are abundant sources of water; primitive camping is allowed along most of the trail; and the entire thing could be thru-hiked in one week if desired. I really just wanted to have a leisurely and relaxed hiking adventure. In addition, I found the trail to not be crowded with long distance hikers, at least during the week I went. I suspect the weekends may be different.  All in all, I'd have to say this is one of the best and most enjoyable hiking experiences I have had thus far.

Day 1 - Monday, July 14, 2014 - Oconee SP Traihead to Lick Log Creek Campsite (8 miles?)
I packed up and left the house about 8 a.m. My plan was to meet my daughter, Josie, in Spartanburg, where she is a student in college. I arrived about 9 a.m., and we went to breakfast at a place near the campus that my daughter really wanted me to go. I had a great breakfast of country ham, eggs, sliced tomatoes, a big glass of OJ, and coffee. Our plan was for her to go with me in my car to Oconee State Park. She would keep my car, and would then pick me up on Thursday at the conclusion of my hike.

We first drove to the Pickens area Stumphouse ranger station. I had done research about the trail online, including reading reports from other section and thru-hikers. I knew the intended way points, as well as rules about camping, etc. I wanted to purchase a comprehensive trail guide to carry along in my pack. If you are interested in hiking this trail, I would recommend buying this guide. It is available at the Ranger Station, or can be purchased online from The Foothills Trail. There is also much useful information about the trail at this site.
The guidebook has trail mileage and maps broken down by sections. This is great for section hiking, because t is very easy to arrange for shuttles and/or suitable stopping points along the way. One negative of the guidebook is that the mileage and stopping points are figured from east to west, and I was hiking from the west to east. I had to do a little backwards thinking and figuring out my mileage in reverse.
We arrived at the ranger station about noon, and then drove a few more miles down the road to Oconee State Park. The trailhead was easy to find, and well marked. We took a few pics, and I said goodbye to Josie, and headed down the trail. I didn't see anyplace to register, but I might've just missed it. It is generally a good idea to register wherever there is a place to do it, and/or leave a proposed itinerary with someone.
Map of the Trail at the Trailhead Parking Lot
At the Trailhead
Sign at the Trailhead
I was impressed with the condition of the trail throughout the hike. It is generally well-marked with white blazes like the AT, and well maintained, although I did encounter a few blowdowns that had not been cleared. It was a smooth and easy hike at the beginning. I had been hiking for an hour and a half, when a big storm suddenly blew through. I got my rain gear out, but I had neglected to put my gaiters over my boots, so my feet got a little wet. Fortunately the storm was over fairly quickly, so I didn't need to hike long in it.
Shot of the Trail 
'It's Raining!' - My 'Happy Hiker' Face :-/
Abundant Water Sources Everywhere
About 3:30, I started looking for a suitable campsite for the evening. I almost chose one that was not ideal, but I checked the guide, and saw that there were some better ones up ahead.  I came to a trail intersection with a sign indicating the direction to the Chattooga River. At this point, the trail paralleled a creek, and I could see some falls up stream, but there was too much underbrush to go have a closer look. A short time later, reached a cozy little campsite adjacent to the trail. There was a bridge over a small stream just up the trail, so I decided to make this spot my home for the evening.
My First Evening's Cozy Campsite
I pitched my tent, got water, and made a supper of leftover AlpineAire Black Bart Chili, and my usual drink of Swiss Miss Dark Chocolate Sensations. I can only find this particular drink mix at the local Walmart, but this is one trail pleasure I will NEVER give up. It has been a pleasant eight mile hike, and I am feeling good.

Day 2 - Tuesday, July 15, 2014 - Lick Log Creek to Campsite beyond Burrells Ford Rd
I slept fairly well, and it feels very good not to rush. It was just nice lying in the sleeping bag listening to the sound of the creek close by. I did get up around 7:45, and ate the rest of the AlpineAire Bandito Scramble left over from my AT hike. It was a beautiful day.

I broke camp and started hiking around 9:30, and discovered a big campsite and a spur trail to a nice waterfall just a short distance up the trail, so I stopped to take pictures. The sign on the trail says 'Lick Log Falls', but my guidebook says, 'Pigpen Falls'. I don't know which name is correct, or if it refers to a different falls.
Spur Trail Down to the Falls
A Nice Comforting Waterfall with a Pool at the Bottom
The trail turns here to parallel the Chattooga Trail for a while. It was a pleasant hike over a ridge, and through a cool hardwood forest, before I finally caught sight of the Chattooga River down below.

The Foothills and Chattooga Trails Together
Going Up and Over the Ridge
My First Glimpse of the Chattooga River
The trail followed the river for much of the day, sometimes along a bluff, and sometimes right on the bank. When it followed the bank, there were often alternate bypass trails for times when the water level might be high. I stopped several times for breaks along the shore. I also caught sight of a couple Blue Herrons, and tried to snap a pic, but they took off before I could do so.
Scenes of the Chattooga River (Above and Below)


A Sandy Beach to Rest 
My Resting Place and a Fire Ring
I stopped for lunch along the river just upstream from a little waterfall. Since I was not in a hurry, I broke out my alcohol stove, and cooked up a little Lipton Chicken and Noodle Cup-a-Soup, along with some tuna salad on flatbread.  It was much better than my usual Pro-Bars. I have decided to up my calories, and try some a different touches for lunch. It was also nice to relax on the rocks, and just watch the river go by, not feeling any impulse to keep moving.

My Lunch Spot
The Trail at Water's Edge
After lunch, the trail left the river, and there were a few decent climbs. The trail is generally well-marked, but the blazing is not always consistent. There was a confusing spot at an intersection with the Cherry Hill Campground Trail. There was a double blaze, at which point I turned, and found myself following the wrong trail. I soon discovered my mistake, and backtracked before I had gone too far. The Foothills Trail also connects with the Bartram Trail, which goes into Georgia, and eventually connects with the Appalachian Trail! I thought that was really neat. 

I did not see another soul until I got close to Kings Creek and Burrells Ford Road, where I ran into a few day hikers. At Burrells Ford Road, there was a USFS campground, but I chose to hike on, preferring a more isolated spot to camp. There was a good uphill climb after Burrells Ford, and I stopped for water at the first stream I came to on the way up. I wasn't exactly sure of the terrain and water sources up ahead, so when I reached what seemed to be a ridge line, I decided to make camp at the first obvious site with a fire ring right next to the trail.
A Tight Squeeze Between Two Rocks
Heading Up the Ridge

My Camp Kitchen! 
I set up camp, and stretched a clothes line with my bear bag. I always try to do double duty with the line whenever possible. Anyway, I had it strung out in such a way that I could hang up everything, including the things that were still wet from the rain yesterday.
Full View of Campsite, with Combo Bear Bag and Clothes Line
Day 3 - Weds., July 16 - Campsite Beyond Burrells Ford Road to Round Mt. Gap 
Nights come early in the woods, and back country camping is a very simple lifestyle, consisting basically of hiking, eating, sleeping, reading, and just enjoying the wonders of creation. It was a rainless, breezy night on the ridge, and in the morning I took my time getting up. I was pleased to see that it hadn't rained, and the wind in the evening had actually dried out all my damp clothes.  In figuring out my distance for the coming day, I wanted to find a campsite within a half day's hike of the Bad Creek access point, where Josie would be picking me up tomorrow. I wanted to make sure I could get there before 1 p.m., as she needed report for work in Spartanburg at 4 p.m..

The guidebook indicated some good campsites on a blue blazed trail below Round Mountain Gap. This would give me about an 8 mile hike today, and leave me with 5 or 6 miles tomorrow. This sounded like a good plan. After getting up, I packed up my tent and sleeping gear, and fixed a breakfast of Mountain House Breakfast Skillet. It was very filling, and part of my exploration of more substantial trail foods. For five years I've eaten almost nothing but instant oatmeal for breakfast, which is what I normally eat at home, but a little change on the trail seems good. I also made my 'rocket fuel' of instant coffee and Dark Chocolate. I was READY for the day. I decided to look for some sassafras along the way, and gather roots for tea in the evening since I am running short of drink mix.
Sassafras is Very Recognizable with Three Different Shapes of Leaves
I started out about 9 a.m., and found the terrain to be fairly easy. Since I was not in any rush, I took plenty of breaks along the way.  When I got to the crest of the ridge, I placed a call to Josie to let her know when I expected to arrive tomorrow. It was the first time I have had service thus far. The stretch of trail after Fish Hatchery Road is really nice, with many small stream crossings. I think I am a 'stream junkie'. You can usually tell when you are approaching a stream, because there are groves of Rhododendron that grow around the edges, which give a dark, soothing touch to the scene. The sound of the gurgling water is also hypnotic, and sometimes I just stop, sigh, and stare.
Sign At Fish Hatchery Road, and Distance I have Come So Far 
Many Little Stream Crossings
Green Tunnels On This Trail
I'm Captivated By Every Little Stream
I stopped to pump water at one of these stream crossings, and the pump was not working. Naturally, I panicked, and got mad at the pump until I thought to myself, '....hmmm....I wonder if there might be instructions for this sort of contingency in the pump bag?' Well, of course there are, and I felt a little silly for being such a stereotypical directionally challenged guy. The directions offered several possible solutions, and one of them worked!

I hiked on, and just below Sloan Bridge, I stopped for lunch at a little sluice type waterfall on the trail. I have really been enjoying just taking a little time to cook my lunch and relax. I boiled some water and made a full serving of ramen noodles with chicken flavoring. This area begins to follow the East Fork Chattooga River, and there are some nice falls along the way.
Next to a waterfall on the side of the trail...
...was a great stopping place for lunch!
Another Waterfall on the East Fork Chattooga River
Signpost - mostly new and very legible 
The trail beyond Sloan Bridge ascends once again over Chattooga Ridge, and passes out of South Carolina, and the Sumter National Forest into North Carolina, and the Nantahala National Forest. There is a steep descent and a few climbs beyond the ridge, and I presently arrived at Round Gap, and what I surmised to be the intersection of the blue blazed trail with the campsites indicated along the route.
Benchmark At the NC/SC and National Forest Borders
Just a Colorful Flower
The guidebook pointed out that one of the campsites along this way was a 'designated campsite' built by an Eagle Scout. I headed down the trail, and came to a campsite with a temporary sign that read, 'Erosion Control Area - Keep Off'. A short distance further I saw a spur trail with a sign for the 'designated campsite'. I could hear some yelling up at the camp that sounded like teenaged boys, and knew that it was inhabited, so I judiciously headed on. Presently I came to a bridge over a small stream, and stopped for water. Just beyond this stream was a huge campsite, with a large fire ring, and stone chairs constructed around it. It was obviously a well used campsite, but since was during the week, I decided to stay and hope that it would not be used by any large groups.

I performed a masterpiece of tent pitching between two trees, if I do say so myself. I then took out my sassafras roots, whittled them down, cleaned them in water, and boiled them to extract the tea. I wished I had thought to bring along some coffee filters to filter the water, but managed to get most of the non drinkable stuff out by putting the lid of my pot over it, and pouring it into another. I was satisfied, because it tasted pretty good!! I made Natural High Thai Chicken for supper, and ate the whole thing. It is definitely a winner among freeze dried trail dinners - lots of carbs, veggies, and a goodly amount of protein.  I think I will need to make a list of my favorite trail cuisine to put in the blog.  

Right before getting in the tent, I popped a couple Tylenol PMs. I tried reading a little before going to sleep, but zonked out almost immediately. It had been a great day!
Stone Thrones Constructed Around a Big Fire Ring
I was VERY Proud of this Tent Pitch
Day 4 - Thursday, July 17 - Round Mountain Gap Campsite to Bad Creek Access Parking
I slept fairly well, and woke up grateful to have had such a great campsite all to myself.  I went down to the creek for water, and fixed a breakfast of the remainder of my Mountain House Breakfast skillet, and my last Dark Chocolate Sensations drink mix.

I got on the trail at about 8:45, not really worried too much about the time or distance. It looked to be about 5 miles to the Bad Creek access point where I was meeting Josie, and I felt I could easily make that distance by noon. The trail was beautiful to start - rising and falling slightly through scrubby areas of Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron. There were two areas along Grassy Knob, where a girl scout had constructed benches.  There are some good views of Lake Jocassee from these locations, especially the second one.
Slightly Obscured View From the Observation Bench #1
The First Observation Bench I Came To
A Real Green Tunnel
Scrub Along the Trail
This is another point where the trail turns, but the blazing is inconsistent. I wasn't certain whether the trail turned or continued straight ahead. There were trails in both directions, but no blazes visible ahead on either side. One continued along the ridge, and the other way descended. I decided that the descending trail was correct, as there was also a double blaze coming up the opposite direction.
View From Observation Bench #2 
Bench #2 Constructed By a Girl Scout - I say 'well done!'
I still was not totally convinced as I walked down the trail, as I could find no other blazes in the direction I was heading. I stopped to consult the guidebook, and heard the sound of some people moving up the hill.  It was small group of older day hikers who confirmed that I was indeed hiking in the correct direction. They had been day hiking the Foothills Trail a little bit at a time. One of them (a man) seemed to think I had farther to go to my destination than I did. I wasn't going to argue. I was fairly certain my estimate was correct, but I reserved the right to be wrong just in case.
Signpost at the Bottom of the Hill
NC Hwy 281Crossing- Nantahala National Forest
At the bottom of the hill, the trail crosses HWY 281, and heads towards Whitewater Falls. This area is, by far, the most rugged of the section I have hiked so far, and it does get rocky and steep in places. The trail does not cross within view of the falls, but there are two short cutoff trails - one to the upper falls parking lot, and the second to the observation deck. I decided to take the second trail, which is about a 300 foot climb straight up. Fortunately, stairs have been constructed to make it easier. I was hoping that these falls were worth the effort.
Extra Large Lichen or Mushroom
Steep Climb to the Observation Deck
The Upper Whitewater Falls
The falls were VERY impressive, well worth the effort, and I was happy to have made the slight detour. The trail beyond the fall descends very steeply down to the Whitewater river. It was an unusual bridge crossing on the rocks. I actually needed to crawl on my hands and knees just to get to the bridge. After the bridge, the trail follows the course of the rocky Whitewater river for a time, much like the path next to the Chattooga, sometimes rising and sometimes falling. It finally becomes relatively flat, and passes out of the US Forest Service land, and on to a portion trail that is managed by Duke Energy. There is no camping allowed in the Whitewater River corridor, but I wasn't planning to do that anyway.


The Whitewater River as Seen From the Bridge 
The Rocky Whitewater River
Ferns Growing Along the Trail 
Nice Patches of Open Forest
I arrived at the intersection of the spur trail to the Bad Creek access parking a little after 11. It was a little less than a mile to the lot, and I arrived there around 11:30. Josie was not there yet, but I was early. I tried placing a call, but there was no service, which surprised me a little. I found a pleasant spot under a tree to sit, wait, and write down some notes in my journal.  Josie finally arrived about 12:15, and we traveled back to Spartanburg.


How Far I'd Come
Bridge Across the Whitewater River on the Access Trail
Sign in the Parking Lot
In summary, I had hiked almost exactly 32 miles from the Oconee State Park trailhead to the Bad Creek Access Point. A determined hiker could probably thru-hike the entire 77 mile trail distance in less than a week, but why? I had really wanted to take it easy, stop whenever I felt like it, and just enjoy my hike. This was especially important to me after my recent experience on the Appalachian Trail, and I wanted to correct some of the errors I had made on that trip.  For one thing, I was completely healthy this time, and also took a variety of foods for breakfast and lunch, plus gatorade powder to put in my water.  I must say this is one of the best hiking experiences I have had. It seemed as though I had the entire trail to myself most of the way. I encountered a few day hikers, and no other long distance hikers. I can't be certain, but I feel there is probably much more traffic on the weekends, given what I saw of existing campsites. This is a great trail to hike, and I will plan to return for another section in the near future.

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