2025 AT -Year 15 Section- ME East Flagstaff Road to ME Hwy 15 Monson 57 miles

AT - Year 15 Section - East Flagstaff Road to ME Hwy 15 - Monson - 57 miles

I feel good about what I did this year, even though I did not get to Kathahdin as hoped. Of my entire AT trek, Maine has definitely been the most challenging state for me.  After three tries, I did FINALLY arrive in Monson. Given the personal challenges of family and health, combined with very difficult terrain, my determination to complete this journey has only increased.  Every experienced hiker can relate to the fact that long-distance hiking is HARD WORK. Metaphorically, I can relate the experience to life . Periods of struggle are often followed by blissful joy and triumph, but growth and transformation almost never happen without struggle. Through everything, I've adapted, learned, grown, and am grateful for every experience, no matter the quality.  

Ginny and I made the three day trip to Guilford, ME, where we had arranged for an Air B&B. We had a problem accessing the house, as apparently we were given the wrong code. We tried calling the property manager without success, so we went to dinner at the Red Maple Inn in town, hoping for a contact. We decided we needed to get lodging somewhere, and ended up in a very nice B&B the first night before finally moving to the regular lodging. I delayed a day getting started because of bad weather. It was rainy, cold, and windy. I was also advised that snow was in the forecast in higher elevations, and it may not be safest since I was not completely equipped for wintery weather.. The weather going forward looked to be significantly better.  

My goal for the trip was to take six days to get to Monson, which lies at the southern end of the so-called 100-mile wilderness. Monson is the last the major resupply point before the Abol Bridge campground and store, just south of the entrance to Baxter State Park and Katahdin. My intent was to take a day there to resupply with the recommended ten days' food before resuming my hike north through the wilderness. I didn't know it at the time, but it IS possible to arrange a food drop in the 100-mile wilderness through Shaw's Hiker Hostel in Monson. This is something I will likely do when I return. After Guilford, we had another air B&B arranged in Millinocket near Baxter State Park, the northern terminus. My plan was to take another 'zero' day there before summiting Katahdin as a one or two-day hike.  

I intentionally chose to hike in late May and early June because I knew the trail in Maine would be uncrowded. Most NOBO thru-hikers would not have arrived, and the SOBOS would not yet have started since Baxter doesn't open until June 1st.  I tried to anticipate as many contingencies as I could - for instance I knew the weather would likely be on the cooler side with greater precipitation.  I also was aware of many unbridged stream/river crossings. This made me a little nervous, since greater precipitation, along with spring snow melt, could potentially make river/stream crossings a problem.  In hindsight, I should've considered this a bit more. In addition, the trail in Maine has MANY boggy sections, made boggier by the wet conditions. I also didn't entirely appreciate the insect situation. Mid-May to early June is the height of black fly season, and of course the mosquito's proboscises' were watering at my presence on the trail 

Day 1 -May 24th -  East Flagstaff Road to West Carry Pond Lean-to -  6 miles

I got up early, repacked my pack and got some extra clothes. It was nice to see the sun briefly appear, but it was mostly cloudy. We went for a GREAT breakfast at Spencer's bakery in town. Ginny had her GPS set for East Flagstaff Road, but we did not know the precise location of the trailhead. I knew it was near East Flagstaff pond. We traveled the route eventually down unpaved roads. When we stopped to check, I recognized the exact spot where I had sat awaiting pick-up last year.  We arrived at the parking area around 10:45, check the map, took some pics and said farewells. I used the privy, but was confused as to the direction of the trail. After several unsuccessful attempts to find it, I asked a couple of kayakers who pulled into the parking lot. We were able to see that the trail entered the woods 50 yards up the road or so. 

At the Trailhead on East Flagstaff Rd. 

I was gratified to be back hiking the AT north. The trail mostly follows the contours of the lake for the first part of the day. I was glad to see that most streams were bridged initially, but I knew that unbridged stream crossings were ahead of me. I was carrying information on how best to do these, but was still nervous.  This came soon enough as I had to ford Jerome Brook. It was wet feet and socks for a time after that. The day was not bad, mainly following the shorelines of East Flagstaff Lake and West Carry Pond.  

Just as I was about dried out from the first ford, I fell crossing a small creek and was wet once again. I was pausing every two miles or so to snack and hydrate, along with a longer lunch break. I encountered a group that appeared to be a work crew of some sort. they were carrying buckets and shovels. I didn't remember to ask what they were involved with.   I arrived at the shelter a little after 3. There was no one else around, and I immediately changed into some dry clothes. I decided to stay in the shelter since I had it all to myself. There was a patch of snow on the ground not far away reminding me of where I was. All in all, this had been a decent first day back on the trail.

West Carry Pond Lean-to

Day 2 - West Carry Pond Lean-to to Pierce Pond Lean-to- 10 miles

The second day to Pierce Pond Lean-to was longer, with boggy board walks. I passed an interesting revolutionary war historic site- an encampment of 1000 troops under the command of Col. Benedict Arnold on their way to attack Quebec.  

West Carry Pond View

Interesting Revolutionary War Site

It was mostly flat hiking, but several forded stream crossings - so boots and feet wet. (Note to self and future hikers: I recommend carrying a pair of water shoes on the side of your pack to use in stream crossings) Since I didn't have water shoes, I took the socks and insoles out of my boots - of course the boots were still soaked, but at least it was something. 

Again, there were many low boggy areas beside the long traverse by East Carry Pond. There were a few long, harrowing narrow board walks - thank God for trekking poles as I fear my balance is not what it used to be. The weather was dry, and I stopped every two hours for snacks, hydration, and lunch. I arrived at the shelter before 3 p.m. and met Tony on the way down.  He and his dad - '59 Olds' - were section hiking along with a friend, Jordan. They were staying in the shelter, so I found a nice site to the right of the shelter near the pond.    

Pierce Pond Lean-To

The trio at the shelter were building a campfire, so after getting cleaned up, I went down to visit, fix dinner, and dry my socks off by the fire.  They were SOBO's, who had started their section hike in Monson, my goal in a few days. '59 Olds', like me, was working on completing his final section of the entire trail, but was having problems with one of his knees. His son, Tony, was a graduate of the Citadel, serving in the National Guard corps of engineers. We had an interesting conversation as we witnessed a beautiful sunset over the pond by the shelter.   They warned me about a river crossing a short distance up the trail.  This would be more challenging than the ones already encountered.  

Sunset By Pierce Pond Lean-to

Day 3 - Pierce Pond Lean-to to Pleasant Pond Lean-to - 9.7 miles

This was an interesting and eventful day of hiking. I would need to arrive at the Kennebec River between 9 and 11 a.m. to take advantage of the free ferry service operating between these hours.  The weather was nice and sunny for a change. It started off with a soaking in Pierce Pond Stream. It was probably a good twenty-five or thirty yards across, and at least mid-thigh in depth. I decided to take off my socks and insoles and cross in my boots. I had been warned to avoid stepping on flat rocks, as they were deceptively slippery. I carefully started across facing upstream, and using the trekking poles for balance. I tried to avoid deeper sections, but unfortunately lost my balance and fell backwards about ten yards from the opposite shore.  I quickly uprighted myself and made it across. My pack had stayed relatively dry.  I was grateful for the waterproofing I had done prior to leaving Waynesville.  My jacket was soaked, and my camera, which was in my pocket wrapped in plastic,  had ceased working. I put the pack cover on, and wrapped my jacket around the outside of my pack. I took the battery and card out of the camera, and put them in a baggy wrapped in a towel hoping they might recover. To make a long story short, the camera never recovered. I lost the card, hence no pics for this part of the hike. :-( Most of the pics here are ones I found online.

Pierce Pond Stream Crossing

The weather was nice, and the terrain after my stream soaking was mostly up and down. The trail parallels a stream for some ways, which was nice. There was one one primitive foot bridge constructed of three longs over a tributary. I lost track of the trail a couple times, but quickly managed to get back on track. 

Primitive Bridge

After a steep descent, I arrived at the Kennebec River around 9:45 a.m..  The Kennebec is a wide river fed by dams. Fording is NOT recommended and is, in fact, dangerous, so I was eager to use the seasonal ferry service offered by the Maine ATC.  The ferryman was on the opposite bank slightly upstream from where the trail meets the river. He saw me and paddled over. I signed a release form, put on a PFD, and took a place with my pack in the front of the canoe to help paddle across.   For some reason, the river Styx came to mind, but the ferryman wasn't wearing a hooded robe. I didn't ask, but I don't think his name was Charon!  

Crossing the Kennebec River

After the Kennebec, I continued on, arrivin1g at the Pleasant Pond Lean-to around 2:45 p.m.. I know some hikers like hikng late into the day, but I personally prefer starting and ending every day early. I don't have to compete for space, and there is time to relax, nap, and read my book . Besides, I don't like to rush if I can avoid it. Not expecting other hikers, I pitched my seed house in the shelter to avoid bugs. Around 9:30 p.m., just as I was just dozing off, an ultra-fast NOBO thru-hiker from Tupelo, Mississippi, arrived. I offered to move, but there was just enough room in the shelter for him and me without having to take my tent down.  We had a nice little conversation, and I was astounded to discover that he had begun this day where I had begun three days earlier!  Well, he did have a few less years on him.  I also discovered he was completing the trail after having dropped off with Lyme disease, from which he had completely recovered, I didn't know was possible, but here was living proof! 

Pleasant Pond Lean-to

Day 4 - Pleasant Pond Lean-to to Bald Mt. Brook Lean-To- 9 miles

Day four was a crazy day. I had previously sent Ginny a message on my GPS about losing my camera and card, and she replied that she wanted to meet me at a road below the Pleasant Pond Lean-to to give me a new one. Unfortunately, I did not get her reply until after I had begun hiking today. I messaged her to try to arrange another meeting point, and to see if she could also get some water shoes. FYI - I recommend carrying these for the stream crossings. I traded them for my camp slippers, and clipped them to the outside of my pack for easy access.   

I got an early start, and headed for a big climb up Pleasant Pond Mt to begin the day. There were great views at the summit. During the longish descent, I received a message from Ginny that she had gotten a camera and water shoes. She wanted to meet me at Troutdale Rd.. This wasn't in my trail guide, but I did see another road crossing ahead, and knew my Garmin InReach GPS could provide a specific location. I came to a powerline clearing and saw a road below me. I hung around for a bit before heading north. 

I soon came to a gravel road which the trail follows to the right until reaching a forded crossing of Baker Stream to the left. I decided to wait here for Ginny to arrive. For various reasons - closures, detours, road conditions, etc., it took a couple hours for her to arrive. She finally arrived with a camera, water shoes, along with apples, drinks, and sandwiches which were much appreciated! I ate one sandwich and an apple while guzzling an iced tea.  I stuck another sandwich in my pack to eat later at the shelter.  

I forded Baker Stream in my new water shoes, grateful to have dry boots and socks! I arrived at the Bald Mt. Brook lean-to a little after 5 p.m., which is later than I have arrived in camp so far.  Once again, I set up my seed house in the shelter, and quickly downed my sandwich as the mosquitos were also ready for supper. I anticipate tomorrow to be a more difficult hike with a serious climb up Moxie Bald Mt. to begin the day. 

Day 5 - Bald Mt. Brook Lean-to to Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to - 13 miles

I got up before the mosquitos at 5 a.m. on day 5, made breakfast, used the privy, and hit the trail before 7:30.   I later discovered that I had left my paracord in camp.  I use this to hang a clothes line. It is generally one of the last things I pack when I break camp, but I guess I was in too big of a hurry. My goal today is the Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to, which is the final shelter before Hwy 15 in Monson.  

It was a good climb to start the day up Moxie Bald. I am sure the views at the top are wonderful, but I chose to take the summit bypass about three quarters of the way up. It was bit shorter and flatter, and would save both time and energy. Another delightful advantage to the bypass trail was passing a GREAT spring, and I never can resist pausing to enjoy great spring water.     

After rejoining the AT, I headed down the mountain to Bald Mt. Stream which I forded in my new water shoes. Sadly, I discovered that my brand new camera was no longer working. I did save the card, though, so I managed to get a few pics. I think it probably broke when I slipped coming down the mountain. I used my phone camera for the next few days. 

The trail beyond Moxie Bald is mostly flat woodlands with some boggy sections before fording the West Branch of the Piscataquis River. My guidebook cautioned this to be a potentially dangerous crossing in high water conditions. The water didn't look extreme, but I carefully plotted the best course before crossing the stream. I was extra careful with my foot placement and successfully traversed it.  It was another three miles of ups and downs to the shelter mostly above the scenic river. 

I could see areas of cascading whitewater below me, and wondered if this river was ever used by kayakers. I stopped twice for water and arrived at the shelter around 4:30 p.m.. I immediately attempted to start a fire in the fire ring to ward off the bugs, but could not keep it going. :-( I cleaned myself up and made supper. After supper, the mosquitos attacked with a vengeance, so I quickly dived into my tent. Thus ends another eventful day on the trail- slow, but grateful to feel my 'trail legs' coming back - yay!!    

Day 6 - Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to to ME Hwy 15-Monson - 9 miles

I arose before 5 a..m. on day 6, and decided to eat breakfast first to avoid the mosquitos, which are not as abundant early in the day. I broke camp before 7, knowing I would have a nice 'zero' day tomorrow. It was a beautiful day for hiking. I came to another fording of a branch of the Piscataquis River. Once again, I tried to figure the best route across before entering, which worked well for me.   

After crossing, the trail parallels the river over rolling hills before following a woods road for a mile or so. I was ahead of schedule to meet Ginny at the trailhead. She planned to be in Monson around 2 p.m. I passed Lake Hebron on my right, and a cutoff trail (a former AT route) to Monson. I decided to take a lunch break by the lakeshore. A couple of Loons were offshore serenading me with their spooky calls. 

After lunch, I began slowing down on some not too substantial hills.  Since I was ahead of time, I took another break at a scenic overlook to the right of the trail. Another hiker, not noticing me,  passed while I rested at the overlook. This is only other hiker I' encountered in two days. I called Ginny to let her know I would probably be at the trailhead around 1:30 p.m.. The estimated time was just right, as Ginny was waiting for me when I got there. It felt really good to get off the trail after 6 days. We returned to the Air B&B. I took a shower, got some cold drinks, and we went out to eat at the Lakeshore House in Monson. I highly recommend this place!  Truthfully, all the dining establishments in Maine have been exceptional IMO. 

Epilogue

I planned to take a day off trail in Monson to resupply before resuming my hke north. My anxiety grew, however,  as it rained began to rain hard, and continued all night long. It was a fitful night's sleep as I became increasingly troubled at the prospect of heading into the 100 mile wilderness  alone. It would mean ten more days of hiking starting with a heavy pack, plus more unbridged river/stream crossings, with high water likely, not to mention the swarming insects. I have almost always entered every hike with a degree of confidence, but this time I wasn't feeling it. 

As morning approached, with rain continuing to pour, I made the emotional and difficult decision to suspend my hike going forward. I was very sad and depressed thinking that maybe I was letting myself, my family and friends down, given the buildup of hope and excitement of finally completing the trail after so many years.  Ginny was supportive of my decision. My daughter, Josie,  was coming up to Millinocket with the kids. She told me that she had wanted to surprise me on the summit of Katahdin. I now realize that this was an unrealistic expectation given the conditions of the mountain along with strict Baxter SP regulations.

After making this decision, I considered a few options.  I would go with Ginny to Millinocket, where we had an Air B 'n B for the next two weeks, thinking that I might be able to do Katahdin then. I could return later to finish the 100-mile wilderness at a time of less rainfall and fewer bugs, maybe in September. There were some problems with this plan: First, I had been consistently doing the AT from south to north; secondly, the Birches lean-to shelter in Baxter is only open to hikers who have hiked through the 100 mile wilderness; and thirdly, I would be running into MANY thru-hikers in September hurrying to finish.  I considered finding a guide to accompany me in the wilderness section, which Ginny has supported. I did get the name of one from 'Poet' at Shaw's Hiker Hostel. I have gotten to know the Shaw's proprietors, 'Hippie Chick' and 'Poet' quite well the last few years.

To make a long story less long, we went up to Millinocket, staying in an Air B 'n B aptly named 'The Last Hike'. It is a converted attic loft with a big staircase entrance on the outside of the house. The day after our arrival, a father and daughter duo from New York (aged 58 and 28 respectively) vanished on a day hike of Katahdin. The trails in Baxter were closed while a search took place. Sadly, both were found deceased near the summit - the father from Hypothermia, with the daughter apparently succumbing to blunt force trauma after sliding over icy rocks into a boulder field.  Because it is so exposed, weather on the mountain can change quickly. There was snow, freezing rain,  with a 19-degree windchill factor!  I was reminded of the dangers of the White Mountains in New Hampshire. I liken Mt. Katahdin to putting Mt. Washington in the middle of Maine. These were the first deaths there in five years, but I took it as confirmation of my decision to wait.     

We were in Millinocket for two weeks, and I was able to do a little exploring since I had my hiking gear together. I did multi-day hikes in the Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness area just  south of Katahdin, including one on the AT in the 100-mile wilderness south from Abol Bridge south to the first shelter.  Ginny and I drove from Millinocket towards Baxter SP, where it was thrilling to see Mt. Katahdin in the distance. We also attended a lecture on the works of the local 19th century landscape artist, Frederick Church. He did many wonderful paintings of Katahdin, and I ordered a print of my favorite, which now hangs in our living room. 

Josie and the kids came up the second week, and we made a family vacation out of it.  We hung around Millinocket,  exploring Bangor for a day. We took our time returning to North Carolina, traveling down the coast of Maine, staying in Air B&Bs in Portland and Bucksport.  Some of highlights were an evening cruise of the harbor in Camden, where we viewed lighthouses and saw how lobsters are caught. Lastly, we traveled to Chocolate World in Hershey, PA. Bradley, Autumn and I signed up to design and make our own personal chocolate bars which was fun. We spent the night in an Air B&B on a working Amish farm, run by a nice young Amish couple. A bonus was a very friendly Collie pup and a trampoline for the kids to jump on. I left for home the next day, as I wanted to get for a musical rehearsal in Hendersonville. Josie, Ginny, and the kids all went to Hershey Park, which I was not interested in doing anyway. 

Thank you for reading and following my blog. It has literally been the adventure of a lifetime. For what it is worth, it is a pattern in my life that once I set the goal to do something, I work at it until I succeed no matter the costs. I don't know if this is a flaw in my personality. I hope to finally conclude my conquest of the AT in July of 2026. Please stay tuned. I always welcome your thoughts and comments,  and thanks to all of you who have stuck with me through this incredible journey. 

"Triple M...mmm"