2018 - AT Year 9 Prep Hike - The Art Loeb Trail - Pisgah National Forest, NC

Since beginning my quest to hike the full length of the Appalachian Trail,  I have gradually replaced, improved, and updated equipment in a continuing effort to get lighter and more efficient.  Prior to my year 8 section hike, I decided to do a preparatory hike to test new equipment, and perhaps mitigate some of the physical challenges of being back on the trail. I believe these goals were accomplished. The ideal prep hike would be relatively close to where I live, and could be accomplished in two or three days. It could be a designated length, an out and back, a loop, or even a section of a longer trail.

This year I chose to hike the Art Loeb trail in the Pisgah National Forest of North Carolina. This was a perfect fit given my objectives. It is a scenic, 30.1 miles long trail, passing through the Shining Rock Wilderness, and over Black Balsom Knob. It was doable in two to four days depending on time available, and desired daily mileage.  The northern terminus begins near where my daughter, Josie, lives with her boyfriend, Jeff, in Waynesville, and it ends near Brevard. I thought I might plan my hike in combination with a visit with them.

Jeff is familiar with many of the trails in the area, and had hiked sections of the Art Loeb. Josie is less experienced, but I was happy that both of them decided to join me for the hike. I've mostly been a solo hiker, but I enjoyed their company. Also, the Art Loeb trail is not nearly as well marked or maintained as the AT. Jeff's familiarity with the area and expertise proved to be very helpful.  Neither of them had much long distance hiking equipment, but I had some extra equipment to lend, which made preparation expenses less of a deterrent for them.

Our plan was to drive to the southern terminus at the Davidson River Campground in Brevard, leaving two cars there, while we went together to the northern terminus in the Daniel Boone Boy Scout camp to begin the hike. I had purchased a pocket profile map of the entire trail to carry. This is similar to the AWOL guide I carry on the AT, with elevation profiles, distances, water/shelter locations, road crossings, summits, etc.    I like this type of guide for the linear ease and simplicity of it, even though in this case it was not as detailed, clear, or accurate as I had hoped. Fortunately, Jeff carried a detailed topographical map, which proved to be a boon since the trail itself is not well marked in some areas.

I drove to Waynesville late in the evening on Wednesday, June 24, and spent the night in their home, so that we could begin our trip the next morning.

Day 1 - Thursday, June 25 - Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp to Unknown Campsite (8 miles)

 Getting Ready to Head Out

I arose around 8 a.m., changed into my hiking clothes, had a nice breakfast at the cabin, and prepared to drop off our shuttle vehicles at the southern terminus - the Davidson River Campground parking lot in Brevard. I followed them in my car, since I was needing to head directly home at the conclusion of our hike.  After dropping off our cars, we returned to the cabin and loaded our hiking equipment in the back of Jeff's SUV.

Jeff and Josie Ready to Go!

We rode together to the northern terminus in the Daniel Boone Boy Scout camp, which is only about four miles from the cabin. We arrived and set out on the trail. It was a rainy early in the morning, but subsided as the day went on. There was a steep, steady climb for the first several miles.

At the Trailhead in the Daniel Boone Camp

We arrived at a ridge top intersection with the Cold Mountain trail, but were a little confused as to which direction we should go. This was the first example of poor trail markings, especially at intersections and/or changes in direction where it is most needed.  There were actually few blazes and/or signs throughout the entire northern section of the Art Loeb. This was somewhat surprising to me, as virtually every other trail I have hiked has been more clearly marked.  I thought this could be partially explained by the fact that the Art Loeb does not have the loving care of supporting clubs and volunteers to maintain it.

Beautiful Flowering Rhododendron

Interesting Tree Lichen

It felt good to be back on the trail, and I took some time to admire the local flora. The weather improved as we reached a higher plateau of the ridge, and had some scenic viewpoints. There were some rocky sections to navigate through this area, and we crossed paths with a questioning NOBO solo hiker who struck me as a bit unprepared. After the rocky ridge we reached a relatively smooth, flat section of trail that appeared to have once been a logging road.

Josie and Jeff Enjoying a View from the Ridge

Another Beautiful Flowering Tree

We entered the 'Shining Rock' area, so named for the white quartz rock that abounds. Along the trail there was a stream that literally flowed over the white rock. We stopped to filter some water, but it had an unappealing brownish tint that could not be filtered out. I guessed it to be harmless tannin from the leaves, and drank it anyway. Jeff and Josie decided they would get water elsewhere.

An Example of White Quartz in the Shining Rock Wilderness

An Appealing Spring Flowing over Quartz Outcroppings

Shortly after this, we came to 'Shining Rock Gap', with what appeared to be a confusing jumble of four intersecting trails. The signage was also confusing, and it was unclear which trail we should follow. As we were pondering and consulting our maps, a friendly hiker came bounding down the hill in our direction. He apparently was camped in the vicinity, so we asked him the direction of Art Loeb trail, which he very happily and confidently directed us to.  We made the mistake of accepting his advice without question, even though 'alarm bells' were going off in my head. A word of caution to all hikers - never blindly accept second hand trail advice from other hikers. Always check your maps and/or other sources.

The Road Less Traveled

The bottom line is that we were directed to the wrong path, and ended up hiking a mile or two in the wrong direction. We became suspicious, checking for both the landmarks and compass direction.  I found that I was not equipped with a good compass or helpful trail guide. Thankfully, Jeff's more detailed topographical map gave us an idea of where we were. Since it was getting late in the day, we decided to look for a campsite off trail. and backtrack to the Shining Rock Gap intersection in the morning to relocate the ALT.

Making Camp at a Secluded site

Our Personal Camp Fire

This would mean a longer day tomorrow, but it turned our to be a blessing as we found a nice secluded, relatively bug free campsite with a fire ring. We pitched our tents, and enjoyed an evening camp fire.    

Day 2 - Friday, June 26 - Unknown Campsite south of Shining Rock Gap to Campsite North of Chestnut Knob (16.5 miles)
We made the decision to get an early start in order to backtrack, and locate the correct path. This would be a longer hiking day, but under the circumstances, it was the best decision we could make. Besides, we ended up with a nicer campsite than we might have otherwise found.

Getting Ready to Depart

It was about a mile back the clearing. When we arrived, it only took a few minutes to find the right path. This day was very scenic. We crossed several open balds north of Shining Rock. As we descended to Ivester Gap, I got the distinct feeling that had lost the trail. It was very eroded, overgrown,  and difficult to find. When we reached the gap, there was sign facing the opposite direction indicating the the trail was close due to erosion. There was probably an alternative route, but we had obviously missed it. We rested briefly in the gap before heading on.

Looking Back from Ivester Gap

The next big climb was up Tennent Mountain. We could see people on the summit, and began to encounter day hikers. The trail marking and signage seemed to improve as we moved south. Beyond Tennent was an even higher bald, Black Balsam Knob, and yet more day hikers. A road was visible in the valley below, so access to this section was somewhat simpler.  

Tennent Mountain View

My guide indicated a tribute marker to Arthur J. Loeb, for whom the trail is named, on the summit of Black Balsam, but could not find it when we arrived. The path down to the road beyond Black Balsam was relatively easy, having been paved with gravel in some places. The trail joins and parallels the Mountains to Sea trail beyond the road, and we stopped for lunch on ridge after the next rise.

Beautiful Scenery in the Pisgah National Forest

View from Black Balsom Knob

Pointing the Way

We headed on the ridge for a ways before descending steeply to cross the Blue Ridge Parkway. I slipped once the way down the hill and slightly bent one of my new trekking poles, but not bad.  :-( We stopped for water at the Deep Gap Shelter, one of two shelters on the Art Loeb Trail. I was interested in the design of the shelter, very different from the AT, but obviously not as well maintained. A large group of young hikers from a summer camp were also stopping there, so we briefly visited with some of them.
  

A Cool Evergreen Grove

Triangular Shaped Deep Gap Shelter

I honestly never take shortcuts on my AT hikes, but since this was a pre-AT hike to check equipment, I had no problems if it easily avoided a major climb. Also, this was an extra long day, and Josie was having some problems with her knee hurting on the downhills. Jeff's detailed map really came in handy, as one of the USFS roads looped around a mountain completed avoided a big up and down.
We had the goal of reaching a designated campsite on Chestnut Knob, but found one to the left of the trail a mile or so before it. It was an old campsite, and the fire ring had been dispersed, but we managed to reconstruct it for a pleasant, if slightly more 'buggy' evening.

Josie Relaxing By the Campfire

Day 3 - Saturday, June 27 - Campsite North of Chestnut Knob to Davidson River Campground (6.8 Miles)
We had a relatively short conclusion to our three day hike, so we took our time getting started in the morning. It was a sunny day to start, and mostly downhill to the Davidson River Campground, where we had left our cars. I had been moving somewhat slower than Jeff and Josie, especially on the hills. I was mildly amused and annoyed by this, as I consider myself something of an athlete. I realize, though, that I have not been as diligent in keeping up my physical conditioning this year, especially in terms of endurance. I was just hoping this brief trek might adequately prepare me for the physical challenges of the AT.

Sun to Begin the Day

Flowers on the Trail

It got very dark later in the day. I thought it might rain, but it never came.  The trail appeared very spooky at one point as it passed through a 'tunnel' of vegetation.  Finally, I began to encounter day hikers on the last descent,  caught sight of the river, and a flatly paved surface, telling me I was nearing our final destination.  Josie and Jeff arrived before me, but we celebrated together with a celebratory picture, and soaking our feet and/or taking a dip in the river. To cap it off, we went out for a beer together. It was a great ending to a difficult, but beautiful hike that ended up being somewhat longer than 30.1 miles, given our unintended first day detour. I am grateful for my hiking companions., Josie and Jeff. I was especially proud of my daughter, Josie - her stamina and determination despite some knee pain towards the end.

A Dark 'Tunnel' at Mid Day

Celebrating a Successful Hiking Adventure

For those of you who would like to tackle this trail, I would recommend carrying a detailed map and compass. It is well traveled, but not well marked, especially in the northern region. If are accustomed to seeing multiple blazes, signs, and markers, this trail will keep you on your toes. Despite that, I would recommend it as a challenging path worth exploring.