Year 5 - Pearisburg, VA to Catawba, VA - Dragon's Tooth Parking - VA HWY 311 (60 miles)
Any hike in the mountains is a good hike IMO, and I do believe in making a plan. It is also difficult at times to reconcile my desire to 'play it by ear' with trying to stick to a schedule. If I write it down, I really feel like I need to do it. The need for a schedule can, perhaps, be for the benefit of those who may want to keep up with our progress at home. A schedule can also be a safety issue, should you ever need to be located and/or contacted in an emergency. One thing that cannot be planned for is the possibility of getting sick, and unfortunately that is exactly what happened this year. The hike ended up being much shorter than planned. When I left Rock Hill, I was just getting over a respiratory infection, but was feeling fairly recovered, and excited about getting started. When I started the hike, however, I never felt quite right, and soon began to have stomach/intestinal issues as well. Hiking is supposed to be exciting and fun, and it really felt like a drag the whole time. I did end up covering sixty more miles of trail, and got some good pics along the way. Also, since I always crave solitude, there was plenty to be had this time, even though I couldn't enjoy it as much. I do think I made some mistakes with food and hydration that probably added to my woes.
Day 0 - Tuesday, July 1, 2014 - From Rock Hill to Woods Hole Hostel, Pearisburg, VA
Ginny and I drove up from Rock Hill, arriving at Woods Hole about 5 p.m. It was a long way up the winding gravel road to get there, but it was just as I remembered it. We were assigned a different room in the house than originally planned. There was another couple in the house who had decided to stay on an extra night in the room we had reserved. It was not a bad change, as the new room had three beds. I could therefore choose a different one to sleep in, since I have been known to snore on occasion.
We settled into our room, and just before 7 p.m., I went down to assist with the preparation of the communal meal. Everything was organic, homegrown, and/or homemade: tortillas, black bean hummus, salsa, fresh salad, and several kinds of homemade dressings. We ate outside around a large round table, and we met the others who were staying at the hostel - several thru-hikers, and mountain bikers - nice folks. Afterwards we were all treated to 'Amish' Ice Cream and cones. Right before dinner, we were asked to to go around the table, giving our 'real' names and 'trail names', and saying one thing we were thankful for. Saying my trail name out loud again seemed both natural and strange at the same time. I was thankful to be back hiking again!
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| Brazen Chickens At the Woods Hole Hostel |
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| Ginny in Our Room in the Cabin |
Day 1 - Wednesday, July 2, 2014 - Pearisburg to Unknown Campsite (13 miles?)
I got up at about 6 a.m., anxious to get started on my hike, but not really as nervous as I have felt in past years. I helped our hostess, Neville, my wife, Ginny, and a few other guests prepare breakfast in the Kitchen. These meals are very heavy and 'hiker friendly'. Long distance hikers, in particular, really appreciate the extra calories. There were probably ten people around the table for breakfast. I don't know how we got on the subject, but we started conversing about bullying experiences we had had in school. One of the thru-hikers who had been in the army shared a particularly humorous story about an experience he had in basic training. I said farewell to hosts, Neville and Michael, and some of the other guests, and we left about 9:30 for Lane Street in Pearisburg to begin my hike.
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| Morning of Departure In Front of Woods Hole Hostel |
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| Ready to Head Down the Trail in Pearisburg |
It was about a half hour trip in to Pearisburg, and I said farewell to Ginny and hit the trail about 10 a.m. After briefly going through a plot of woods, the trail emerges and follows Hwy 460 across the New River. There were some nice views of the mountains and the river. The New River has always fascinated me, as it is really one of the oldest rivers the world.
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| Crossing the New River |
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| View of the New River from the Bridge |
After crossing the river, the trail enters the forests and starts a good uphill climb. It was a very uneventful day of hiking, and I only encountered one other hiker all day, and that was heading up the first hill. I felt a little weak going up, but assumed it was just not having my 'trail legs' back yet. I was actually thinking how nice it felt to be back on the the trail, but I really did not feel like pushing the distance.
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| Back to to the Green Tunnel - Mountain Laurel in Bloom |
The weather was hot and humid, and it felt good to be under the forest canopy. It was a different feeling to be out in the open, which happened as I passed through open pasture land once or twice. I stopped for lunch at the Rice Field Shelter about 1 p.m. Beyond that there was more open pasture, along with some nice views. I was a little worried about water supply, since the sources ahead appeared to be a little sketchy. I wanted to be well supplied whenever I decided to stop.
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| Fence Stile Through Open Pasture Land |
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| Lunch Stop at Rice Field Shelter |
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| Open Area Just Beyond Rice Field Shelter - 'Rice Field' Perhaps? |
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| Wonderful Vista from Just Beyond the Rice Field Shelter |
The hiking terrain beyond the shelter was fairly smooth, and I did stop for water at a campsite about half mile beyond some power lines. The source was good, but it was filled with silt, which clogged my pump. I still managed to top off my supply for the evening. Around 4 p.m., I made the decision to start looking for a campsite along the trail, and forget about trying to make the next shelter. I passed a couple possible sites, and stopped at the third one I came to, which was just off the trail.
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| Power Lines Generally Provide some Nice Vistas |
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| So Many Interesting Flowers: Here is a Lilly I hadn't Seen Before |
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| Trailside Camping: Airing Out My Clothes, and My Bear Bag in the Tree in Background |
I pitched my tent, cleaned up, and made a supper of Natural High Lime-Honey Chicken, along with my usual Swiss Miss Dark Chocolate Sensations to drink. Bear bagging was not easy, but I hoped it was good enough. I am not certain how far I have hiked,. I am thinking it is probably around 12 or 13 miles, but I anticipate a longer day tomorrow.
Day 2 - Thursday, July 3, 2014 - to Campsite 2 miles south of War Spur Shelter (15 miles?)
I got started on the trail around 7:40 a.m. I am hiking
very slowly, and feeling more tired than seems normal, plus the weather was still hot and humid. One thing I had neglected to do was bring along some kind of electrolyte replacement to chew or put in my water. I have done this in years past, and I am thinking that this might explain some of the fatigue I am feeling. The trail was still very secluded. I stopped for a short break about 10:30 at Pine Swamp Branch Shelter, and found another hiker (thru-hiker) there. He told me he had taken three weeks off the trail, and was just getting back to it. He was also feeling tired, which made me feel a little less alone in my lack of energy.
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| The Path Ahead |
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| A Cool Stream to Get Water |
I have found that ALL reluctance to camp outside a shelter area I felt when I began hiking the trail in 2010 is now gone. I will not hesitate to stop whenever and wherever I find a suitable site, preferably near water. There was a good climb up to Bailey's Gap Shelter, where I took another short break. The section after that was very rocky, and steep. The thru-hiker I had encountered earlier passed me by. Since it was so hot, I said a little prayer for rain to cool things off. This prayer was answered almost immediately, as I heard thunder, and a nice little rain shower blew through the area.
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| Bridge Over a Creek Before the Climb |
Soon after that, I crossed into the Mountain Lake Wilderness. Mountain Lake was always one of my favorite destination spots when I lived in Roanoke, and I remember hiking in this area in my youth. There was a great view spot at Wind Rock, and I stopped briefly for some pictures. I wasn't sure how far I was from the War Spur Shelter, but I thought I might be able to make it. I am not too worried about getting there, which is one of the good aspects of being willing to camp anywhere. Not all campsites have reliable water close by, so it is good to anticipate the need, and stock up sooner if possible. The hiking beyond Wind Rock got a little easier, and as I came down the hill I found a big open campsite, and decided it was a good enough place to stay.
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| Mountain Laurel Blossoms are Plentiful and Beautiful |
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| View From Wind Rock In the Mountain Lake Wilderness |
After pitching my tent, cleaning up, changing clothes, etc. I fixed a dinner of Natural High beef stew and mashed potatoes. My stomach has been bothering me, and I am a little discouraged to still not be feeling quite right, but I am hoping and expecting to improve as the days proceed.
Day 3 - Friday, July 4, 2014 - (Independence Day!) Campsite to Sarver Hollow Shelter (16 miles)
The rain yesterday really had cooled things down, and I spent a very pleasant night in the tent. I was thankful as I broke camp and headed down the trail about 8:30 a.m. It was a nice cool morning, and I made good time initially. Heading down the hill, I crossed paths with a very bold deer, who stood still as I snapped his picture. I thanked him, and moved on. I arrived at War Spur Shelter about 9:40, and stopped for a short break.
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| Courageous Deer Posing For A Pic |
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| Taking a Break at War Spur Shelter |
I crossed a bridge and stream, and began the long, very slow climb up Kelly's knob. At one point I passed through a narrow patch of stinging nettles which made my bare arms itch. After crossing a gravel road at Rocky Gap, the trail follows an old logging road, and the hiking was slightly easier. Right after I crossed Rocky Gap, I encountered a large group of day hikers accompanied by a few dogs. I sat down to rest about a quarter mile on, and they passed me on the way up. There was a long, smooth ridge at the summit, which made for easier hiking. Just after I reached the top, I passed the day hikers, and they wished me a happy fourth of July. I thanked them, and said that I couldn't think of anything I'd rather be doing, which really is true.
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| One of the More Primitive Bridges on the Trail |
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| An Open Patch of Forest |
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| Stinging Nettles Bracketing the Trail on Path Up Kelly's Knob |
The descent from Kelly's Knob was somewhat steep and rocky. Sometimes I am not sure whether I prefer the uphills or the downs! I reached the Laurel Creek shelter about 1:30. There was a SOBO hiker in the shelter who was section hiking the entire state of Virginia. We visited a little bit, and I asked him about the terrain ahead. He said it was not bad - rolling hills and pastures, with one big climb remaining before Sarver Hollow shelter, which was my next destination. He suggested I check out the Keffer Oak, which is the largest oak tree on the southern AT - eighteen feet in circumference!
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| Crossing Scenic Open Pasture |
Before leaving the shelter area, I stopped briefly for some water at a nice stream, and continued on. It was indeed very beautiful countryside - rolling hills and pasture. I also was happy to find some blackberries and raspberries that were ripe. I can never resist pausing to feast on these natural treats. I came to the Keffer Oak, which was right on the trail. It was a very impressive thing to see. I couldn't really get a pic of the whole thing, but it was huge. The thru-hiker I had been leapfrogging since day 2 was resting under it. He said he really wasn't feeling well that day, and I could relate. I wished him well, and told him that in another day or two he would probably be as good as new!
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| Beautiful Rolling Hills and Pasture |
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| Enjoying the Mother Lode of Blackberries!! |
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| Base of the Keffer Oak - Largest Oak Tree on the Southern AT |
Continuing on, the climb up Sinking Creek Mountain was the most difficult climb on this hike thus far. When I finally reached the top, I passed scattered rock piles that had obviously been put there for a purpose at some time in the past. I couldn't really make out the purpose. Some of them seemed to be more organized than others. Some resembled chimneys, others were just piles. The chimney-like ones did not appear to be hollow. There were many of them. They were very interesting, but why were they here? I couldn't speculate. I guess they are a little like the heads on Easter Island.
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| Another Nice View Courtesy of Power Lines |
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| One of the 'Chimney-Like' Rock Formations on Sinking Creek Mountain |
I finally reached the cutoff trail to Sarver Hollow Shelter between 5:30 and 6 p.m.. The shelter was about a half mile off the trail downhill. I was completely exhausted, but very anxious to get there, so I didn't mind the extra distance. When I arrived at the shelter, no one else was there, so I put my stuff up in the shelter, and went down to the water source. It was a boxed spring with a pitiful little flow, but I was grateful for the water nonetheless.
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| Sign Post At the Spur Trail to Sarver Hollow |
Day 4 - Saturday, July 5, 2014 - Sarver Hollow Shelter to Pickle Branch Shelter (16.1 miles)
The evening was very comfy in the warm sleeping bag, especially with the cooler temperatures, and it was difficult to get up and get going. I finally got up, made breakfast, packed up, and snapped a few pictures of the shelter. There was a plaque on the side of the shelter with a nice quote from Jack Kerouac. I started hiking around 8:30, and the half mile climb up to the trail did not seem so bad. It was fairly smooth going initially.
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| Blurry Photo of Sarver Hollow Shelter |
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Memorial Plaque with Quote from Jack Kerouac
"While looking for the light, you may suddenly be devoured by darkness and find the true light." |
So far on the hike I had only encountered three other hikers, but I met a few more today, almost all of whom were SOBOS (SOuth BOunderS). After last year, I had been craving solitude, and that seems to have been the rule so far on this hike. On the way down the mountain, I crossed paths with two younger boys, and a man who informed me that the water sources ahead were fairly limited. It felt like deja vu from July, 2010 in north Georgia. I remember things then had been pretty dry as well, and the water sources not always reliable.
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| Incredible Views of the Blue Ridge |
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| Clear View of the Ridge |
I paused for lunch and water at the next shelter about 12:30. The thru-hiker I had been encountering was there again. He must've passed me in the evening. I was not looking forward to the next climb. It was going to be a long climb to the top of Brush Mountain, and I have just been dragging up the hills.
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| Crossing the Eastern Continental Divide |
I was looking forward to reaching the summit of Brush Mountain for more than one reason. The guidebook indicated a memorial marker to one of my heroes, Audie Murphy, on the top of the ridge. Audie Murphy had the distinction of having been the most decorated American in all of World War II. He was awarded almost every medal possible, including the Congressional Medal of Honor. Following the war, he became an actor, and acted mostly in 'B' movies, westerns and such, but he did star as himself in, "To Hell and Back", the story of his exploits during the war.
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| Just Before Climb up Brush Mountain |
When I was in middle school in Roanoke, the local station often aired his movies, which is how I became acquainted with him. After his acting career, Murphy became a businessman, and was flying to Roanoke on business when his plane crashed into the top of Brush Mountain killing everyone on board. I was in the seventh or eighth grade at the time, and was very saddened by this event, so I felt the need to visit the monument near where he had died. When I reached the spot, my thru-hiker shadow was already there, along with an older couple. The monument had been erected by a local VFW post, and there were little flags, hats, and other memorabilia scattered around it. I took a little time to sit and reflect.
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| At the Audie Murphy Monument at the Summit of Brush Mountain |
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| Good View of the Inscription |
"To Hell and Back" the Audie Murphy Story (Snippet)
After Brush Mountain, there was a nice downhill, with one more 'bump' prior to the shelter. This shelter was also a ways off the trail, and once again, I was the only one there. I am really loving the solitude! After getting set up in the shelter, I took care of my feet. These new boots are much easier on my feet than my previous ones, but after sixteen miles, my toes still appreciate the attention. The water source behind the shelter was a nice little stream, and I couldn't resist putting my feet in to cool off.
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| Pickle Branch Shelter: I Had the Shelter All to Myself, So Naturally I Took Over! :-) |
I fixed a dinner of AlpineAire Chicken Gumbo. The AlpineAire freeze dried meals seem to be a bit spicier than many of the others, which I appreciate. Some of the freeze dried trail meals are just too bland for my taste.
Day 5 - Sunday, July 6 - Pickle Branch Shelter to HWY 654 Dragon's Tooth Parking
The weather thus far has been good, and I was still fairly optimistic as I prepared to break camp. The day started well, and I knew there was a big climb up to 'Dragon's Tooth' ahead. Dragon's tooth is a spectacular jagged rock formation atop a peak overlooking the Roanoke valley. It is one of two day hikes (McAfee's Knob is the other) that I frequently did when I lived in Roanoke. I was looking forward to crossing both peaks today as I headed down the trail.
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| View From the Ridge Heading Up to Dragon's Tooth |
It was smooth hiking on the ridge initially. I noticed a lot of sassafras growing along the trail, and thought I would pull up some roots to make tea later in camp. The climb was gradual at first. Around 10:30 I came upon my familiar thru-hiking friend. We had been encountering each other off and on since day 2. We were like the tortoise and hare going down the trail. He was a fast hiker, and would pass me, but then he took very long breaks, and I would pass him. He had camped on the trail last evening, and was just getting started. We hiked together briefly, and then he shot ahead of me again.
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| View From Dragon's Tooth |
It is a rugged and difficult climb up Dragon's Tooth, and I was feeling weak and a little light-headed. As a runner/athlete, I've learned to listen closely to my body, and I was not liking the signals I was getting. I struggled on more and more slowly, finally reaching the summit at about 12:30 p.m. I took off my pack and laid down to rest and eat something, but my stomach was still saying 'no'. The thru-hiker was already there, along with a number of day hikers who had come up the other side. He was cooking a lunch of Ramen noodles with his alcohol stove. Since starting the trail four years ago, I had always just carried cold foods/meal bars for lunch, not wanting to take the time, but I am seriously rethinking this strategy. We got on the subject of our favorite kind of beer, and contemplated whether there might be a store near the highway crossing. Somehow I got it in my mind to have a cold Mountain Dew, with lots of ice, and this appealing thought would not go away.
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| Not a Great Pic of the Jagged Rocks on Dragon's Tooth |
I stayed on Dragon's Tooth for about a half hour, and then started down. The descent was one of the steepest and most treacherous sections of trail I have yet encountered. I am thinking that the trail may have been re-routed since my youth, because I really had no recollection of the difficulty. Of course, it WAS probably easier for me then. I passed a cutoff trail to the Dragon's Tooth parking lot, but the AT continued straight on. I knew that it would eventually reach the road. I came to a small gap, at which point the trail began to ascend once more, but the route was unclear. I sat down to rest, unsure of my direction, and contemplating the idea stopping short.
A short time later, a day hiker happened by, and I inquired about the direction of the trail, and whether there was a store somewhere near the road at the bottom. He said there is a store, but that I would need to backtrack, and then hike a ways down the road to get to it. I expressed my discouragement, and said that I was really not feeling that great. He told me of a 'scout trail' spur to the parking lot up ahead, and offered to go ahead of me, drive down to the store, and meet me in the parking lot when I got there. I thanked him profusely, and asked if he could get me a big fountain drink of Mountain Dew and maybe some juice and fruit (apples or bananas) if they had it. I believe in angels, and this man was definitely one.
I hiked on down the trail, and came to the intersection of the yellow blazed 'scout trail' to the Dragon's Tooth Parking lot, which was about .7 miles further on. On the way down I passed several campsites, which I thought I mike hike back to in order to make this a short day, and hopefully rest up and regain my energy. I arrived at the parking lot just as he was pulling in. I paid him for the supplies, and thanked him again. He offered to take me to a motel. This was the first time that the thought of actually coming off the trail had entered my mind. My plan had me stopping at a motel in Daleville, which was about three days hence. When he mentioned this, though, the thought of just chilling in an air conditioned motel room for a day or two seemed VERY appealing. I had not been having as much fun as hoped for, and thought if had a little time to recover and resupply, I just might be have a better experience.
I did not want him to go out of his way, but he said he lived in Christiansburg, and it was not a problem, since there were a number of exits just off of I-81 in Salem that had motels, restaurants, etc. It is ironic, because this is only a couple miles from where I grew up. I still had a few local contacts, and believed I could get a lift back to the trail when I felt up to it. On the way down to the motel, I found out his name was Kurt, and he was a biology teacher at Christiansburg High School. I offered to pay him for his trouble, but he wouldn't take my money. I do want to thank him publicly, and pray that God blesses him as he has been a blessing.
I checked in to the motel, and placed a couple phone calls to my daughter and wife. I had been out of service for several days and had not checked in. My wife had been visiting friends in Galax, VA, and had just left to return to South Carolina. My plan was still just to stay in the motel for a couple days and jump back on the trail when I felt better. Anyway, the short of the story is that my wife's friends told her that I wanted her to come pick me up, so by the time she called me, she had already turned around and was about an hour away. In retrospect, I do think that coming off the trail was probably the best decision.
I try to learn something from every trek that will help me the next time out, so I want to do a post-mortem. I had been gradually reducing my pack weight, which is a good thing, but had made a couple basic mistakes dealing with food and hydration. First, I neglected to carry some kind of electrolyte replacement, energy gels and/or tablets to put in my water. Secondly, I really feel the need to have better choices and more calories in my overall trail diet, especially for breakfasts and lunch. Thirdly, I rushed to get out on the trail soon after completing a big work project (choir tour), where I caught a respiratory infection, and was not completely recovered when I started hiking. In this case, the spirit was more than willing, but the body was weak. I know that I sometimes make plans, and feel like I am letting myself down if I don't stick with them. In the future, I will plan to be more spontaneous! :-)
Epilogue: There is always a silver lining to every cloud, and the upside is that I covered sixty more miles of trail, and was able to go home for a few days of rest and recuperation. Since I still had vacation time, and still had my hiking equipment ready to go, I decided take a few days to explore local (South Carolina) backpacking trail options. I discovered the Foothills Trail, which traverses 77 miles from Oconee State Park to Table Rock State Park in northwest South Carolina and southern North Carolina. I decided to do a section of this trail, correcting the errors I made on this AT adventure. I have also altered my blog to include trails other than the AT. There is a page on this blog about my experience on the Foothills Tail. Thanks for reading, and as always, I welcome your thoughts, comments, and/or suggestions.
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