AT Year 14 - Andover, Me, South Arm Road to East Flagstaff Rd. 75.6 miles After unexpectedly shortened hikes the previous two years, I was very much in need of a positive experience this year. I am pleased to report that this year's hike was good for a number of reasons: I had a partner who would be joining me; my wife, Ginny, would be along to meet and resupply; and I got through the remaining most difficult sections prior to Mt. Katahdin.
I was initially apprehensive about completing the AT at all following my heart problems in 2023. My recovery was good, however, and my cardiologist gave me the OK, with a recommendation that I hike with a partner. I found individuals and groups to hike with, and did MANY preparatory hikes in the area where I live in Western North Carolina.
I enjoy solitude in the woods, and have been a solo hiker for years, so hiking with others is a big change. My wife's cousin, Elizabeth, who lives in Oregon, expressed interest in joining me for this section. Elizabeth was a less experienced hiker, but we had several zoom meetings to plan. She was excited and eager to learn, which also made me excited.
Ginny and I left our home in Waynesville, NC, on Sunday, June 2nd, to make the two day trip to Maine. Our plan was to pick up Elizabeth at the airport in Hartford, CT on June 3rd. We spent the first night in Wilkes Barre, PA. Ginny had arranged to stay in 2 Air B&Bs over the duration of our planned hike. We picked up Elizabeth, and arrived at the first Air B&B in Phillips, Me, late in the evening of Monday, June 3rd. It was a older, rustic house, with a long family connection, and an interesting history
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| Our Accommodations in Phillips, Me |
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| Interior of the Air B&B in Phillips, Me |
We decided to take Tuesday off to recover from the drive, and to pack and gather supplies. Ginny worked out how to get to the trailhead. We also explored the nearby town of Rangeley, which has an outfitters and excellent restaurants. Ice cream is also very popular in Maine. There is an ice cream parlor in every little town, so we enjoyed this as well.
After packing, Elizabeth and I weighed our respective packs. Both of us were carrying extra water, which adds to the weight. I feel that adequate hydration has been a problem for me the last few years, and decided to reinsert my 2 liter hydration reservoir. In addition, I would be carrying 2 liters in side the pouches, and a 22 oz. bottle in a holster on my belt. I wanted to ensure that I would always be well hydrated. Since we would be resupplying regularly, I could carry less food. My total pack weight was around 30 lbs., which is what I usually aim for. Ideal pack weight will differ between individuals depending on their height and weight.
Wednesday, June 5th - Day 1 - South Arm Road to Unnamed Gap - 4.4 miles
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| On South Arm Road |
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| Ready to go at the Trailhead |
We said our farewells to Ginny, and took a few pics at the trailhead. A very fast female NOBO thru-hiker crossed the road just before us. I knew we would likely never see her again. We hit the trail shortly after 8:30. The first part of the day would be a major climb up Old Blue Mt.. I made a point to stop every 20 minutes to hydrate, and to allow Elizabeth to catch up. I knew what to expect, but could see she was struggling with the difficulty of the climb. I was aware of my tendency to push myself hard, especially at the beginning of a hike, so appreciated the opportunity to pause.
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| View Heading Up the Mountain |
We had good views of the road below on the way up the mountain. There were a few rebar assisted climbs over some of the more rocky spots. Elizabeth and I gradually became more and more separated over the course of the day. I tried to be as encouraging as possible, but it soon became obvious that we would not reach our intended destination of the Bemis Mountain Lean-to.
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| On the Climb |
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| Wind Farm Visible in the Distance |
We arrived at the summit of Old Blue Mt around 2 p.m. A passing SOBO thru-hiker informed us of campsites in a gap near a sign on the north side of the mountain. We made plans to look for that. It began to rain after crossing Old Blue, and we got our gear on. Since I was hiking faster, I said I would wait for Elizabeth at the first campsite I came to.
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| At the Top of Old Blue Mt. |
I passed some obvious campsites in the gap and came to a small sign on a tree. I continued a short distance beyond this, but encountered major blowdowns over the trail. I backtracked to the sign, and waited for Elizabeth. There was a water source nearby, so we both tanked up, and found two adjacent campsites near a stream. We set up camp and planned to regroup in the morning.
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| Our First Campsite (above and below) |
Day 2 - Unnamed Gap to Bemis Mt. Lean-to - 4.3 miles We awoke around the same time, which is generally early at this relatively high latitude; ate breakfast, packed and got water from the nearby stream. I helped Elizabeth (trail name - 'E-bomb') with her tent and how best to load her pack for best weight distribution. We broke camp around 8:15 and headed up the trail.
We soon encountered a SOBO hiker who informed us of difficult blowdowns ahead. I was already aware of the first one. It was difficult traversing these apparently recent blowdowns, which obscured the entire trail. With some effort, we managed to find a path around both of them.
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| View Along the Way to Bemis Mt. |
Most of the first part of the day was an ascent of Bemis Mt. The terrain was still tricky, and I was grateful to wait for 'E-bomb' on the frequent climbs and descents. We arrived at a bench along the trail, stopping for hydration and snacks. The trail turns at this point and we headed on, taking lunch at the intersection with the Bemis Spring Trail.
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| 'E-Bomb' Taking a Break on a Bench |
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| View Going Forward |
We soon arrived at the summit of Bemis Mt., with nice views to the east. There were also some good views of big lakes to the west. The distance to the shelter beyond Bemis Mt. was somewhat deceptive. I began to wonder if we had already passed it. E-bomb was able to access a Google map app on her phone. We were able to ascertain that it was still ahead of us. I like to travel with as little technology as possible, but this was helpful to know under the circumstances.
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| From the Summit of Bemis Mt. |
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| Nice Flora |
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| Trail Benchmark |
We finally arrived at the shelter around 3 p.m. There were plenty of tent sites in the area, but we decided to stay in the shelter. I filtered some water and prepped a dinner of Chicken Fried Rice. The area had recently been cleaned by a trail maintenance crew. Some inconsiderate hiker(s) had already soiled the area, however. I won't say exactly what we found, except that the the privy was new and very nice.
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| Setting Up Camp in the Bemis Mt. Lean-to |
Day 3 - Bemis Mt. Lean-to to Dirt Rd. Campsite - 3.5 miles Today was a good day of hiking, not long, but with good challenges and events. We slept in a little after a rainy night at the shelter. I awoke at 6:00 a.m. as my biological clock demands, and began packing up. I ate a breakfast of Cinnamon granola and coffee. I prepare the granola ahead of time in vacuum sealed bags with instant milk. I do this to avoid using extra fuel. All I need to do is add cold water, and let it sit while I pack. It works well for me. I also read my book and visited the nice privy.
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| Drizzly and Boggy Start |
We broke camp around 10 a.m. 'E-bomb' was feeling somewhat discouraged, and shared doubts about being able to continue. I tried to encourage her, as I am well aware of how difficult the trail can be, especially in the first few days. I got in the habit of waiting for her at particularly challenging spots. This worked well for both of us, as we can assist one another if and when needed.
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| Pretty Purple Flowers |
The weather was drizzly initially, but cleared as we went along. There was a good climb up Bemis Mt. second peak. We came to open areas above the tree line, but cairns were conveniently placed to mark the route. Another challenging aspect were the many boggy areas, which were often difficult to traverse. The challenges were offset by the beautiful views.
As we crested the mountain, we came upon a large bird right in the middle of the trail. It was odd that it didn't respond at all to our presence and barely moved at our approach. It moved slowly off the trail only after we came very close and made noise. I thought there must be something wrong with it. We discovered later that this was a 'Spruce Grouse'. They eat only spruce, making their meat unsavory - thus they are safe from predators/hunters, and unafraid of people.
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| A Fearless (bad tasting) Bird |
There were beautiful panoramic views from the top, and we could see Hwy 17 and Sabbath Day Pond to the north. We took lunch around 1:30, and met a NOBO thru-hiker from Finland. He had a wonderful accent. We inquired about his hike, and what he thought of the trail so far. He stated that, being from Finland, the heat was most difficult to handle.
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| Bemis Mt. Summit |
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| View From Top of Bemis Mt. |
The descent from Bemis Mt. was steep and often treacherous, but we finally arrived at the road and campsite a little after 4 p.m.. We set up camp and got water, but the rain started falling once again. We hunkered down in our tents, hoping it would stop. I got out briefly between downpours to prepare supper, with the rain commencing just as I finished.
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| Day 3 Campsite - Trying to Dry Out |
Day 4 - Dirt Rd. Campsite to Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to - 4.8 miles It was a rainy night in the tent, but I managed to keep most of my stuff dry in the vestibule. I got up around 5:30 and started packing. E-bomb indicated she was awake in her tent as well. Another hiker had camped across the stream from us, but left early. We planned to break camp around 8 a.m., but took off just after 8:30.
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| At the Overlook |
The initial stream crossing was supposed to be a ford. There was a log over the stream a short distance up stream and we both managed to cross without getting wet. Despite that, there were many other stream crossings in the area with wet fords going north. It was a slow climb up to Hwy 17. Our goal was to meet Ginny there at or around 9:30.
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| View from the Hwy 17 Overlook We were in no hurry and conversed most of the way up. I surged ahead near the top and arrived around 10:30. There was no parking right at the trailhead, but there was a scenic overlook a short distance up the road. Elizabeth was coming up behind me. I looked across the highway and thought I recognized Ginny standing at the trailhead on the opposite side. It was indeed her, so I started enjoying the fantastic views from the overlook. |
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| Down The Road Towards the Trailhead Elizabeth made the decision to suspend her hike and to stay with Ginny. I would therefore be going as a solo hiker once again. She was sad to have to make this decision, but both her knees very were sore, and the trail was challenging her more than expected. I can understand this decision, and have appreciated her company. I was also grateful not to have pushed myself too hard at the beginning of the hike as I am prone to do. I was a little nervous, however, as the cardiologist had cautioned me against hiking alone. On the other hand, I was feeling good, and the next little section to Rangeley appeared to be the easiest of the entire hike. It would be a little test of my conditioning, but I was not planning to push it. |
There is a monument to the AT at the overlook, with a tribute to Myron Avery on one side. Avery is the person primarily responsible for mapping and constructing much of the trail. We took pics around the monument, and I gathered a few supplies. I thanked 'E-bomb', said farewell to Ginny, and headed back to the trail.
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| A Monument to the AT |
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| Myron Avery Memorial |
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| Last Hiking Pic with 'E-Bomb' There was an initial climb before passing through boggy/soggy areas. I stopped for lunch just before Moxie Pond. The bog hike was challenging in that many of the walking boards placed for hikers were either broken or missing entirely. I carefully chose my path to avoid falling into the muck, which could be up to the knee.
There was another challenging descent to Sabbath Day Pond. I met two female trail runners who had come from Hwy. 17. I am a former trail runner myself, but I was simply amazed at the the ability of these two to run on trails as technically difficult as this. It's challenging enough just hiking it. I soon reached Sabbath Day Pond, and the trail sign to the shelter pointing left. I went to the shelter, hoping I could stay in it, but the mosquitos were swarming. I think I must be somewhat of a delicacy to them so I chose to pitch my tent on a platform in front of the shelter. I also wanted to dry out my rain fly. I got water from the pond before the rain came once again.
Day 5 - Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to to Me. Hwy 4 - Rangeley - 9.4 miles This was a relatively easy day of hiking, terrain wise. My original plan had me going short and getting into Rangeley tomorrow. I thought that I could most likely get to highway 4 today and take a 'zero' day tomorrow.
I awoke at 5:30 after another rainy night in my tent, but at least I was free from the swarms of mosquitos who seemed to thrive near the pond. Some of my clothes were still hanging on the line, but I knew they would dry quickly as I hiked. I was down to one pair of socks, as my other pair had torn. The socks I wore were soaked as were my boots, which is never fun. I packed up my wet things and broke camp before 8. It was about a 9 mile hike to the road over generally flat and/or downhill terrain. It was fairly smooth going, but with MANY difficult boggy areas to cross. Logs placed for walking were often broken and strewn everywhere. The rain was constant for the first part of the day.
I stayed hydrated and arrived at the Little River Pond campsite for lunch. I had cell service, so I called Ginny to let her know of my intention to get to the highway today. She warned me not to have a heart attack, which I was happy to oblige. I was feeling good and confident.
The 4.8 miles from Little Pond to the road were the easiest of the trip so far. There were still boggy areas, but also stretches of smooth trail. It reminded me of much of the southern AT, and was a welcome relief from rocks and roots. I arrived at South Pond, and texted Ginny that I would be early to the trailhead. I had told her to be there at 5, but didn't know if she had gotten this new text or not.
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I appreciate the opportunity of having a complete day off the trail. This is an opportunity to rest, resupply, wash clothes, and dry out all my wet gear. It was a nice day, so I could hang my wet things up outside. I completely went through my pack in the garage, and determined what I needed for the next section. It would be six days on the trail, but with more difficult terrain, especially the second day up Saddleback Mt. None of the days were long and I felt confident in my ability to complete the section without problems. I got almost everything done in the morning. In the afternoon, Ginny, Elizabeth, and I explored the nearby town of Farmington. This is a college town. There are an assortment of good restaurants in the downtown area, and we found a great one. I was also able to buy some needed supplies at a nice general store.
Day 7 - ME 4, Rangely to Piazza Rock Lean-To - 1.8 miles
I took my time packing in the morning, as it would be a very short hike to the first shelter north of Hwy 4. Ginny was a little nervous about me doing this next section alone, because the terrain over Saddleback Mt. was known to be particularly difficult. I assured her that I would check in regularly. The plan was to continue keeping the hiking days short, taking regular breaks and hydrating well. I was dropped off at the trailhead around 11:30 a.m., and bid farewell to Ginny and Elizabeth. This would be the last time I would see Elizabeth on this trek. Her mother was scheduled for surgery in Mobile, AL, and she made plans to fly there from Bangor.
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| Going Solo on Day 7 |
We took some pics at the trailhead, and I took off across the road. I immediately came to a place that was poorly marked, and accidentally went the wrong way. I backtracked, and was able to locate the correct path to the left. I could tell I am not the first person to make this mistake, and wonder why the trail is not more obvious - a simple strategically placed blaze would do.
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| First Trail Sign |
Anyway, it was a relatively easy hike up the ridge. I stopped frequently to hydrate, and arrived at the shelter around 1 p.m.. There was a guy from New York hanging out in the shelter. He was not very talkative or friendly. He said he was tired, and asked about bugs - black flies in particular. I said I thought it was early in the season for black flies, but mosquitos can be bad. I also said that I lathered myself in the non-toxic repellent, 'Whup-A-Bug', along with pitching the seed house of my tent in the shelter on occasion. I would do that here if no other hikers showed up. I offered him some of my repellent, but he said he doesn't use it. He decided to move on, but indicated he may be back.
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| My Seed House Tent in the Piazza Rock Lean-to |
I got water from the nearby stream, and hung up my old clothes. I waited to see if there were other hikers, but eventually did decide to pitch my seed house in the shelter
Day 8 - Piazza Rock Lean-To to Reddington Campsite - 6.2 miles
Today was a strenuous day of hiking, but with some GREAT scenery when the weather cooperated. I got started before 8, and right away started climbing. I passed several scenic ponds at a relatively high elevation - first there was Ethel Pond, then a smaller one, and then Eddy Pond. I am not sure, but these ponds may have been left by the receding glaciers at the end of the last ice age. I know this is what formed what we now know as the great lakes.
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| Eddy and Ethel Ponds (above and below) |
After passing the ponds, the climb became continuous up Saddleback Mt. This mountain is named for it's profile resembling a horse's saddle. I entered the alpine zone above the tree line, with many false peaks on the ascent.
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| Rebar Assisted Climb |
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| Entering The Alpine Zone |
I finally reached the summit a little after 11 a.m., and met a large contingent of day hikers from the Maine Natural Resource Board. I conversed with one lady who kindly offered me blueberries and Whoppers, which I gratefully accepted. I took a break and checked in with Ginny to let her know I had made it without difficulty.
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| Above the Tree Line |
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| The Right Way! |
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| At Cloud Level |
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| Cairns Near the Summit of Saddleback |
I proceeded on along the top of saddle towards the Horn. I encountered a woman hiking with her mother and daughter, with a very small baby in a breast pack. They had come up from a side trail. Given the difficulty of the terrain, I was slightly surprised and a little alarmed that she should attempt this with such a small infant.
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| A Little Color |
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| Success!! |
The horn itself was 1.7 miles further on. Once again, this was a climb with many false summits - something I have come to accept and expect. It was a very treacherous, steep, and rocky descent from the Horn, but I arrived at the Reddington campsite area about 3:30.
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| Views Along the Saddle (above and below) |
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| On the Descent |
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| A Ladder Assist |
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| On The Horn of the Saddle |
The blue blazed trail to the left led to tent sites and a water source. It was not the greatest campsite in the world, but I was happy to stop. The water source was a stream .6 miles further on. The trail to the stream was flooded almost impassable from the rain, so I filled up from a flowing source close by. My boots and feet were also wet once again. The little toe on my right foot was beginning to chafe, and I needed to moleskin. My boots were coming to the end of their serviceable life. This is generally after 500 miles or so of hiking. I made a note to obtain repair and waterproofing materials at my next resupply.
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| Blue Blazed Trail to Reddington Campsite |
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| My Site At Reddington Stream Camp |
Day 9 - Reddington Campsite to Poplar Ridge Lean-To - 2.7 miles
I tried taking my time in morning, since today was just a short hike to the next lean-to. It was a beautiful, quiet morning. The rain had stayed away all night, so much of my stuff had dried. Another good thing about this particular campsite is the relative lack of bugs. I was slightly nervous, however, since my trail guide had apparently popped out of my pocket the day before. I felt confident that I could remember my proposed stops for the next two days, and knew Ginny had an extra copy.
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| Moose Track |
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| Moose Scat |
The trail beyond Reddington Stream went down for a while before ascending to Saddleback Junior. I have been noticing much evidence of moose, both tracks and scat, but have yet to see one in the flesh. I am not looking for that, as I know they can be dangerous, but it was interesting to see so much evidence all over the trail. The climb up Junior was not quite as extreme as Senior, but still formidable. There were good views to be had near the top, with a grand vista to the north and south from the summit.
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| Climbing Saddleback Junior |
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| Looking North from Saddleback Junior |
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| View South towards Saddleback (Senior) Mt. |
For me, the descents are more difficult than the ascents, especially in wet conditions. I am extra careful with my foot placement. I also didn't want my boots to get soaked again. Though this was a short hike, it seemed long. I arrived the shelter a little after 11, which is very early.
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| Arriving at Poplar Ridge Lean-To |
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| In Memory of Geri 'Inchworm' Largay RIP |
I set up my seed house in the shelter, hoping no one else would be staying there, but I am always prepared to be flexible as a matter of courtesy to other hikers. So far, I have only encountered 4 or 5 other hikers this entire trip. Two NOBO thru-hikers, 'Cujo' and 'Sedate' stopped by, and we had a good conversation.
I mentioned off-hand that I had lost my trail guide. Amazingly, 'Sedate' had found it and picked it up!! I was most overjoyed and grateful to have it back. I have found nearly all fellow hikers to be good souls. It was good to relax and dry my stuff out a bit more. Two other NOBO's camped near me later in the evening.
Day 10 - Poplar Ridge Lean-To to Spaulding Mt. Lean-To - 8.0 miles
This was a good day of hiking starting with a descent to Orbeton stream. There was no avoiding getting wet. The two guys in camp with me the previous evening had gone upstream looking for a better crossing, but were having to bushwhack back to the trail on the other side. I chose the most direct route sidling my way across facing upstream.
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| The Path Along Poplar Ridge |
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| Orbeton Stream Crossing |
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| A Cool Waterfall near Orbeton Stream |
Just on the other side was a short side trail to an impressive waterfall. I sat down for a break at the bottom of the falls, enjoying the breeze and taking in a little hydration/nourishment. I had a steep climb out of the gorge before traveling parallel to the fast moving, Sluice Brook.
There followed a long, pleasant, flat section of trail, before heading up Lone Mountain. This reminded me of the southern Appalachians, as I actually encountered a less rocky climb with switchbacks. I stopped for lunch on top of Lone Mountain.
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| On Lone Mt. |
It was another 2.2 mostly flat miles to the shelter after Lone Mt.. I arrived around 2:30, and texted Ginny. I was thinking about setting up my seed house in the shelter. The insects are not too bad here. I unsuccessfully tried to start a fire in the fire pit. A SOBO hiker showed up as my attempt at fire was dying away. He was a young guy still in high school - not very communicative. There was just enough room for both of us to set up our tents in the shelter.
Day 11 - Spaulding Mt. Lean-To to Crocker Cirque Campsite - 6.2 miles
I was up at 5:30 and started packing. My uncommunicative partner in the lean-to had mentioned wanting to get to highway 4, which was about 18 miles south. I thought this would be challenging for him to accomplish on a number of levels. If he was to do this, he would need to get an early start, and I saw no signs of movement as I prepared to leave. I left before 8 for an enjoyable and relatively short day of hiking.
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| View From Spaulding Mt |
It was smooth and easy for the first half of the day. The climb up Spaulding Mt. was long but not steep. The ridge was awesome and gentle. I ran into several day hikers, and paused to talk with one who was heading towards Mt. Abraham. There were great views to the east from the ridge line.
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| View Along the Ridge (Above and Below) |
I passed a bronze plaque commemorating the completion of the final section of the entire Appalachian Trail, which was really neat. I passed a day hiker traveling with small Pomeranian dog. My thought was that he must have hiked from somewhere else.
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| The CCC Made It Possible |
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| On the Descent |
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| A Rare Assist Over the River |
After such an easy hike, the descent to the South Branch of Carrabassett river was a dramatic change - extremely steep and treacherous. I even needed to remove my pack at one point to slide over a large boulder. I finally arrived at the river. A wooden plank was conveniently placed to assist in crossing, and rock hopped the rest of the way. I had lunch at a campsite on the other side. As I was eating lunch, the man with the Pomeranian came by. I expressed amazement, and he told me the name of the dog (can't remember it). He called it the 'hiking Pomeranian'. I thought this little dog handles these trails better than I do!
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| The 2000 Mile Blaze! |
Shortly after lunch, I crossed a woods road which, according to my trail guide, is exactly 2000 miles from Springer Mountain. Unlike previous landmarks, there was no clear marker commemorating this milestone, so I had to do it to myself. Where are the fanfares and confetti when you really need and deserve them?!! :-)
Another mile on a slight hill, and I arrived at the camp. before 2 p.m. I set up on a nice tent platform. This has been good and interesting day of hiking.
Day 12 - Crocker Cirque Campsite to Me, Hwy. 27 Stratton- 7.3 miles
I awoke early. There was another hiker camped nearby, but I hadn't noticed him at all. It felt isolated where I was. I took off before eight. The plan was to meet Ginny in the afternoon at Highway 27. It was a long hike up South Crocker Mountain to begin the day.
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| On the Climb |
There are nice views on South Crocker. A small group of day hikers were there, along with a hiking couple, who kindly snapped my pic. I headed down the trail and up again to North Crocker Mountain. The group passed me on the way up North Crocker.
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| South Crocker View |
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| At the Top |
I met the group again on top of North Crocker. There was good cell service, and I got a text from my daughter, Josie, wishing me a Happy Father's Day. I placed a call to her, and took a lunch break, while the hiking group headed back down the mountain.
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| Another View From North Crocker Mt. |
It was five miles downhill to the road, so I texted Ginny with a 3:30 ETA. It was a longish trip down, but not bad, and I arrived at the highway at 2:30. There were a couple of 'LASHERS' (Long Distance Section Hikers) also waiting at the road. One of them was from New Brunswick. He was a year older than me and had already thru-hiked the trail. He was a retired fire fighter who does search and rescue. We discussed our respective health issues, and I explained my need to hike with a partner. He suggested that a portable GPS device, such as a Garmin InReach, might be a better option. This is something I will seriously consider.
Ginny was an hour away at the second Air B&B in Abbot, Me. She arrived after 4:30, and we headed there. It was a long drive, so we stopped to eat at a nice restaurant in Solon, Me. I need to say that the restaurants in Maine have been excellent, even in smaller towns.
Day 13 - 'Zero' Day
The house in Abbot had a large deck, so I thoroughly went through my pack in the morning, airing out my damp gear on the railings, and listing needed resupply. I also washed all my clothes. I needed a new stuff sack for my tech items, along something to repair and seal my boots.
I knew Shaw's Hiker Hostel in Monson had a large inventory of items. It was only 10 miles away, so Ginny and I drove there. It was a very busy place, I assumed mainly with SOBOs arriving from Baxter, which opened June 1st. It was GREAT seeing 'Hippie Chick' and 'Poet' again, and they seemed genuinely happy to see me. I think they were a little shocked and surprised to hear of my cardiac event from last year. I had been convinced it was stomach issues at the time of my last visit.
I was able to purchase a stuff sack at Shaws, but they did not have the needed boot repair items. 'Poet' suggested we go to Greenville, the next town north. Greenville is situated next to Moose Lake. We made the drive, stopping at a grocery, and a big general store, the Indian Trading Post. They had just what I needed for my boots. We walked around the town, and ate at a nice restaurant on the lake.
We went back to Abbot where I repaired and (hopefully) waterproofed my boots. I really did not want to hike in wet feet anymore. I wanted to hike a few more days in order to get through the Bigelow Range. This is the last really difficult section in Maine before Mt. Katahdin, and I didn't want it to be in front of me on next year's hike.
Day 14- Me Hwy. 27 Stratton to Horns Pond Lean-To - 5.1 miles
I arose early after a night of not much sleep, and began packing up. Ginny prepared a big breakfast and made arrangements to pick me up in three days. This, at least, is my goal. I want to get to East Flagstaff road, which is at the northern end of the Bigelows, and just south of Flagstaff Lake. This three day hike would be challenging, but once again, I am planning to take it easy.
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| Preparing to Depart on Day 14 |
We arrived at the trailhead, said our farewells, and got to hiking around 9 a.m. It was relatively flat terrain for the first two miles before getting rocky and steep for next two. This is a climb up to what are known as the horns.
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| Great View From the Climb |
I reached the ridge line, with nice views, and took some pics. It was less than a mile along the ridge to the lean-to, where I arrived around 2 p.m.. On the way, I could see Horns Pond to my left. This site has two shelters, along with a caretakers area. I looked for remote campsites, but there were none to be found , so I chose a wooden tent platform near one of the shelters.
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| On the Ridge Line |
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| Tent Platform Behind the Shelter |
I pitched my tent on the platform and went for water. The water source is a pool by a large boulder. This is part of a watershed, and were signs cautioning against straying further into the watershed to avoid contaminating the supply.
Day 15 - Horns Pond Lean-To to Avery Memorial Campsite - 3 miles
I got up with the birds after a GREAT night's sleep, the best so far. It is only a short hike today, but some tough terrain to cross on the way to my destination of the Avery Memorial Campsite. Prior to breaking camp, a section hiker from Pennsylvania came by looking for water. We had a good little conversation, and pointed him in the direction of the water.
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| View of The Valley |
I started out before 8, and was greeted with a big climb up South Horn. The PA section hiker passed me on the way up, and we conversed a bit more.
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| South Horn |
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| Looking South to Horns Pond |
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| Heading North To Bigelow and Avery Peak |
Following South Horn, it was another steep climb over Bigelow Mt. West Peak. I encountered 3 NOBO's on top of the West Peak: a man from Montreal and a hiking couple. The man from Montreal was ready to finish his hike mainly because of the bugs. I commiserated with him, and almost on cue, a hornet from a nest around the sign at the summit stung the woman.
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| Misty View to the Northeast I encountered two SOBO hikers on the descent from West Peak. One of them was from Georgia, and carried what looked like a VERY light pack. The other was much younger, but was carrying a huge pack. This seemed like an odd contrast at the time.
I arrived at the campsite around 11. The water source was a small boxed spring with the best tasting water yet. I was not yet hungry for lunch, and didn't much care for the Macro bars I got from Elizabeth, so hung out in the tent. A strong thunder storm blew through in the afternoon, but the rain stopped before evening rolled around. |
Day 16 - Avery Memorial Campsite to East Flagstaff Rd. - 8.9 miles
Today was to be my last day on the trail, and I was excited to get going. It would be a difficult day terrain-wise, but I am looking forward to getting over the final most difficult hurdles in my quest to conquer the AT. I packed up in the morning, and spoke briefly with a passing hiker looking for the water source. There were no other hikers camped in the vicinity.
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| Avery Peak - First Climb of the Day |
I took off around 8 a.m. and headed up Avery Peak. At the summit, I saw what appeared to be the base of a former fire tower, and came to yet another tribute to Myron Avery, for whom this Mountain is named.
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| View to the West |
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| Fire Tower Remnant |
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| In Honor of the Man - Myron Avery |
The descent from Avery Peak was long and challenging. I finally arrived at Safford Notch and the trail to the campsite. The trail heads up Little Bigelow Mt., the last mountain in the Bigelow chain. It is a long steady climb, but mostly not steep.
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| The Path North |
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| Looking Towards Little Bigelow Mt. |
The top of Little Bigelow Mt., is rather flat. Rain was threatening, so I put on my gear. I heard thunder, and was a little worried about being caught in an exposed area. I checked in with Ginny to confirm where and when I anticipated being at East Flagstaff Rd., not knowing if I would have cell service later.
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| On the Descent From Little Bigelow Mt. |
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| Flagstaff Lake |
I climbed above the tree line once again, and began the descent of Little Bigelow Mt. shortly after lunch. The rains came, but the thunder and lightening seemed further away. There were many flat rocks to traverse. I passed the trail to the Little Bigelow Lean-to, and followed a stream for some time. I was running short on water, so I stopped at one point to tank up.
The trail is flat and smooth before East Flagstaff Rd. I arrived there early and tried to contact Ginny, but there was no service. My guide book indicated a parking area down the road from the trailhead. It was a gravel road, and I walked 1/4 mile or so in the wrong direction, trying to get service along the way. I got some answers that she was being delayed because of fallen trees from the storm.
I headed the other way past the trailhead, and found the parking lot and trail north. I continued up a hill to a 'T' intersection and had service. I waited there until Ginny arrived, and we headed back to Abbot.
Summary:
I know I've said it before, but I really needed a hike like this one. I am a fairly confident person whenever I set my mind to do something, but part of me was having doubts. I have been inspired with athletic endeavors in my adult years. This physical discipline and training has supplemented and benefitted my professional aims and pursuits as a musician. Having a partner at the beginning of the hike was VERY helpful in terms of listening to my body. I didn't foresee going solo, but not pushing too hard at the beginning warmed up my mind and body for the challenging sections that followed. I also feel very strongly to exercise the gift of gratitude. This is something that often overwhelms me when I am out in the wilderness. I am VERY grateful to be able to do this, and to share with all of you. I am looking forward to next year, and potentially finishing my years-long quest. Thank you all for following my journey and reading this chapter.
Thanks, Suzy! I hope to finally get to the end next year. Thanks for following and reading my blog!
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